An Indoor Tour of Oslo: Museums, A Library, and Local Delights

After exploring the lows and highs of Oslo, it was time to head indoors.

Our first stop would be the Munch Museum. You’ve probably seen Edvard Munch’s painting The Scream in some form or another as you’ve made your way through life. Hell, the killer from the Scream movies, Ghostface, has a literal face based on that painting. It’s that iconic.

You know the painting? The one with the person on the pier with their hands on their face, uh, screaming. Yeah, you know it! Anyway, it’s in a massive building home to many Munch works of art, among others.

There it is! You see that building that looks like it is leaning? That’s the Munch Museum. It’s a cool piece of architecture that truly helps distinguish the Oslo waterfront.

And here we are from the angled part of the building, looking down on the opera house, Ferris wheel, and the rest of the city. It’s a stunning view.

Now, the museum holds more than works of art made by Munch. They curate for a local and global audience. Several rotating exhibit halls are showcasing local Norwegian talent. Some of it is a bit too modern for my liking, but I can still appreciate the effort and skill it took to make these works of art.

All that being said, we were really there to see The Scream. I mean, I think most people who visit the museum are there to see it. They do something a bit different, and refreshing from my perspective, when it comes to presenting the work of art. Three versions are on hand at the museum. There is a painting, a drawing, and a print version. There is always one of those on display at any given time. The other two remain in darkness until it is their time. And I mean that literally. There is a timed rotation for the art.

During our visit, we were only able to see two of the versions, but it was still enjoyable to see the work.

I prefer the drawing version. There is something in the linework that truly highlights the screaminess (I…don’t think that’s a word, but I am going with it) of the subject.

There is another aspect of the museum that I also found enjoyable, even if it is geared toward children/younger visitors. Dotted throughout the museum are little windows. In those windows are tiny dioramas/works of art that are only seen by crouching (if you’re an adult), peering through a small window, and pressing a button to illuminate the scene.

I am not even sure my partner knew about this while we were walking around. She might have seen me peering into columns and then taking a photo, and thought, “What is this man doing???” I was looking at art!

After getting our fill of Munch, it was time to mosey on to our next stop.

The Deichman Library is Norway’s oldest and largest public library. It’s also free to enter, so if you’re looking for something to do that does not require any cash, this is the place. It’s also a great spot to rest your legs and treat your eyes to some wonderful architecture and interior design.

Taking in some culture, and seeing hundreds and thousands (no, not the things that go on Fairy Bread, Australians) of books that were not in English, it was time to move on to our next destination.

The Nobel Peace Center was our next stop. If you remember from an earlier piece I wrote about Stockholm, we went into a Nobel Prize Museum and saw memorabilia from various prize winners. This museum is just for the Peace Prize recipients.

The museum is mainly a home for the Peace Prize recipients’ work, told through multimedia. Photos, videos, short films, and various works of art depict the achievements of different laureates over the years.

There is even an exhibit where you can see who was awarded the prize during the year you were born, and you can even take an interactive quiz to see what your “Peace Personality” is. I was determined to be ‘The Negotiator,’ like Jimmy Carter or Martti Ahtisaari. “You are considerate and solution-focused. You manage to create dialogue and collaboration between people, and you use these abilities to improve everyday life for those around you.

Is all of that true? Who can say.

Toward the end of the tour, we could finally lay our eyes on the Nobel Prize itself. Oooh!

All of that walking sure made us hungry and thirsty. Was our food destination close to the Nobel museum? No. Were we going to walk there? Also no. Was a taxi in our future? Yes.

Welcome to Mathallen Oslo! It’s a food hall focused on small, local Norwegian businesses. Here you can find something for everyone. Dessert? They got it. Korean? Yup. Aquavit? Oh boy, yes, they do.

What is Aquavit, you ask? It burns.

It’s not like Malört, it’s better, actually. Aquavit is a distilled spirit made famous in Scandinavia. Countries have their own spin on it, adding different spices and herbs, but each variety we tried definitely cleared my sinuses. So they all have that in common!

If you are pressed for time or cannot decide what to eat while in Oslo, Mathallen is the place to go. It will satisfy every craving and then some. It’s also a great way to support a local business.

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Oslo to Osl-high

After making the most of our visit to Stockholm, it was time to venture beyond the Swedish borders. We began our drive and stopped at a familiar spot for some quick eats.

I mean, how could we not stop at IKEA in Sweden? We parked, charged our car, and got some food as well. The food was not very filling, so we actually ended up going next door to a Max Burger and ate until we could not eat anymore, or it was really that we each ordered our own meals and ate them.

After getting our fill, we continued our drive to Oslo.

Let me tell you, the Scandinavian countries have the charging thing down. We stopped at various Circle Ks along the way and were able to charge, recharge, and relieve ourselves all at once. I have no idea why it is so hard for us in this country to achieve that. Oh, wait, yes, I do. We have an oil-dependent country that is trying to limit the impact of zero-emission vehicles.

Anyway, after arriving in Oslo and driving through a final series of amazingly built tunnels, we found ourselves at our hotel for our stay. The Radisson Blu has the best view of the city and a bar to match.

We made our way to the top and got a great spot overlooking the harbour and the city.

We found this to be a perfect way to end our long day of driving. There is nothing quite like enjoying a local beer with good people and a gorgeous sunset.

The next day would see us logging several miles on foot.

Vigeland Sculpture Park has over 200 sculptures in granite, bronze, and wrought iron. This is a free park open to anyone. We had a wonderful time wandering through the park and admiring the art and the greenery. I am going to let the photos we took speak for themselves, rather than wax poetic about what we saw.

OK, I lied. I’m going to say that this park is VERY popular. As you can see, heaps of people visit the park. The sun was out, making it an ideal day to visit and walk around.

OK, again, me, hi. Look at the detail and craftsmanship on the pillar above. The way the artist captures the detail of the muscles and skeletal structure as the bodies writhe, making them look like they are moving. That’s cool as hell!

After exhausting our legs for the morning, it was time to head back into town. We hopped on the tram and made our way back down to the waterfront.

The Oslo waterfront is, to put it simply, gorgeous. The opera house and the Munch Museum line the water, adding to the already stunning view with cool, inventive architecture.

The opera house was letting out as we approached, and the guests were filing out. Some made their way to the tram and the city, while others climbed the slanted walkway for an elevated view of the waterfront and the city.

It really is gorgeous, I know, I used that word a few times already, but look at the view from on top! The buildings make the city more colorful, literally, and make this walk a must-see. Even if it were cold, I would say that this is a stunning view.

And please, stay tuned for my next piece. It’s a scream!

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It’s Skansen!

It’s what?

Skansen!

OK. But what does that mean?

It’s Skansen!

I have no frame of reference for whatever this place is. What. Is. Skansen.

And scene.

The above was an actual conversation I had with my partner about the next stop on our tour of Stockholm. She kept repeating, as a matter of fact, that “It’s Skansen!” as we walked toward the entrance. That meant nothing literally to me.

She had been there before as a child and was taking me there for the first time. She told me I couldn’t look it up to see what Skansen actually is, so I was at the mercy of her and the park map I received after we passed through the entrance.

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Still, I have no idea what I am about to walk into. The ticket taker was very nice, handed us a map, and told us to enter the funicular.

A funicular, you say? I love ’em!

You’ve probably seen a funicular before, but you might have forgotten it has an official name and isn’t called a “vertical train” or anything similar. It isn’t like a gondola or tram. It slowly climbs a hillside because we do not want to walk all the way to the top of the park. That’s what’s happening in Skansen, anyway. Other funiculars around the world are placed for other reasons.

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I took a little video of our journey to the top of the park. I have to say, it moved much faster than I anticipated!

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Once we reached the top, I still had no idea what was happening in this park. OK, I read the guide and my partner told me what it was all about, but I was still a bit in disbelief about what I was seeing.

I think I have teased it long enough to let those who don’t know know that Skansen is an open-air museum and zoo depicting Swedish life from all parts of the country before the Industrial Era. It’s not so much a reenactment kind of place, because they were selling hot dogs and Coke Zero from a stand near the Maypole seen above. It’s more of a living reminder of what various parts of Sweden were like at this time in their history.

It was a nice day for a stroll, and the park itself is well-maintained, making it an enjoyable place to spend an afternoon.

Aside from the various forms of architecture you can see and walk through, there were a few animals around. I did mention that it also functions as a zoo, and while the reindeer were not on view, one of the other “must-see” animals was.

Where could they be hiding?

There it is! I giant [expletive deleted] bear!

I once came across a bear while I was on a run. True story. Scouts honor. I was running in the San Gabriel Mountains behind JPL when I came around a bend and, not 50 yards in front of me, was a brown-tan bear the size of a love sofa. Thankfully, it was walking away from me and not toward me.

Stopped dead in my tracks, backed up as slowly as I could, and when I turned a corner, and the bear was no longer in sight, I booked it out of there. The bear pictured above was much, MUCH MUCH bigger than the one I came across all those years ago. So, if I saw that bear in front of me…gulp!

Skansen is a truly gorgeous place to walk around, see the native flora & fauna, and learn a few things about Sweden before the Industrial Age. I had never heard of the place until my partner took me, and I am sure that there are plenty of people around the world who don’t know that it exists. Also, it’s so close to the ABBA Museum and the Vasa. I mean, you can’t go to either of those spots without passing by Skansen, so it should be a necessary stop for you on your trip to Stockholm.

Several small shops and cafes dot the park as well, helping quench your desire to spend on things that are not mass-produced. They really do highlight the various craftspeople who live in Sweden with the various items sold on site. From blown glass to tea towels, there is a souvenir for you or someone you know at Skansen.

Or not.

You don’t have to bow to consumerism at all. You can be the kind of person who takes only photos and leaves only footprints. Skansen is still there for you to peel back the veil of Swedish history and see firsthand what it was like all those years ago.

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Exploring Stockholm’s Unique Museum Experiences: From ABBA to Vasa

I mentioned in an earlier piece that I like visiting different types of museums. Art is fine, but sometimes there’s too much art. You know what I mean? Especially modern art. Pretentious [expletive deleted] stuff does not move my needle of interest.

It just so happens that Stockholm has a bevy of museums that cater to wildly different interests. From music to ancient ships, you can scratch just about any itch that you may have. The best part is that these are things that you will actually want to see. I’m being 100% serious here. There are numerous places around the world you are told you need to see, but they end up being duds. Two out of the three places I am going to take you through are not those places. The third is a bit more niche, and your mileage may vary in terms of how you feel about electronic music, so it may or may not be a stop for you.

Our first “museum”, I put it in quotes because it is a museum in the loosest of terms, was The AVICII Experience. If you didn’t know, or forgot, Avicii was a Swedish DJ who made a giant splash with his hit “Levels,” which sampled Etta James’ “Something’s Got A Hold On Me.” He tragically took his own life in 2018. This experience is a walk through his childhood, his early DJing and mixing, and his ultimate rise to fame.

This photo was from his set at Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival in 2012. I’m including it because I was there. No, I can’t find myself in that photo, but I was there for some of his set. I remember hearing Levels and dancing around, feeling the beat in my chest because the speakers pound you with the music.

The reason this post is coming so late after my previous entry about Stockholm is that I have been trying to find my older external hard drives containing my photos from that Coachella. Because, while I was “feeling myself,” I still took photos and remembered the giant head on the stage and Avicii doing his thing. And after days of digging through other hard drives and boxes, I found it!

*Sound Warning* – It’s loud. It was 2012, and I shot it on my iPhone 4S. Photo and video quality are what they are.

It was quite the experience to walk around and see his childhood room, the different studios where he worked, and the impact he has had on others.

They also had a few interactive components. Along with photos and videos, you could listen to audio from Tim (Avicii’s real name) and those closest to him as they describe his artistic process and what he was like to work with. You could also create your own mix of one of his popular tracks, and you could stand on stage, behind the turntables, and bring out your inner DJ. Those were some of the highlights of the experience.

But what really got me was at the end. I mentioned earlier that you could see the impact Tim left on his fans and the music community at large at this experience. It wasn’t until the end, as we were leaving, that I saw it in black and white. There was a guestbook that people from all over the world signed, thanking Tim for his music and presence. Seeing that and reading what people wrote really hit me profoundly.

If you didn’t know, Tim took his own life after years of battling with addiction and mental illness. He was only 28 years old. That’s way too young. The pain he was feeling was too much, and it seemed like he felt that there was only one way to manage it. I have no shame in sharing that I, too, have struggled with my mental health. Seeing a therapist and getting on medication has truly helped me in profound ways, and I don’t know where I’d be without it. So, if you or anyone you know is struggling, please reach out. There are people in your life, and professionals, who are willing to help you.

After being emotionally impacted, I hate to say it, but it was time for a drink.

Enter Icebar Stockholm.

If you’ve made it this far through my Stockholm series and are a fan of certain travel shows, you might be noticing a pattern in our points of interest. My partner told me about the TV show The IT Crowd (it’s hilarious, btw, and I need to keep watching it) and that one of the actors on it hosted a travel show. Richard Ayoade hosts the first few seasons (or series if you’re British) of the travel show Travel Man. The premise is that he has 48 hours to spend in a European city or another part of the world, and he brings along another comedian to make it colorful. The show highlights spots that are not always the most popular or obscure, yet remain engaging.

Meatballs for the People, the narrow street and the lodged cannonball from my last post were highlighted in his Stockholm episode, so was the Icebar and the final museum that will show up in this piece. Safe to say, the show gets it right. These were great spots to visit!

You can probably guess what the Icebar is – it’s a bar made of ice. You make a booking, don some gloves and a poncho, and make your way into the subzero (-5℃, 23℉) saloon. I believe the booking included a drink in a solid-ice shooter. The drink was tasty, and looking around at all of the ice sculptures and structures was really fun and interesting.

Some people cannot handle the cold. We entered shortly after a couple, and they were in there for maybe five or ten minutes before they left. We had the place to ourselves and took advantage of the space, taking a plethora of goofy photos. After we finished our drinks, it was time ot head to our next destination.

From the frozen confines of the Icebar, to the frozen in time Vasa.

The Vasa is the only almost fully intact 17th-century ship currently on display. There could be other ones out there in the world, but you can’t visit them on dry land! Walking up to the museum highlights the enormity of what you are about to see. The structure is massive, as I said, and it’s easy to see why once we step inside.

I am not sure if the photos do the ship justice. You can see people at the base of the ship, off in the distance, or right next to it, to help provide a bit of scale, but it still does not seem to illustrate how impressive the ship is. It’s also amazing to see this ship nearly fully intact and see the work that was put in by humans in the 17th century to build this damn thing.

It’s mind-boggling, if I’m honest. From the intricate inlays to the levels on levels built to house the crew, it was impressive. The Vasa is a must-see attraction for anyone visiting Stockholm, and so is our final museum!

I have a memory from my childhood that is so vivid. There I was, sitting at my Aunt and Uncle’s house on Thanksgiving, watching the Cowboys or Lions play football. The game was getting out of hand (aka a blowout was underway), and my uncle sauntered over to his sound system and pressed a few buttons. What came through the speakers was none other than Sweden’s own (and Norway’s, ahem, Frida) ABBA. I was so shocked that I did not know how to process it. My uncle danced around the room for a minute and then went back to the kitchen.

The ABBA Museum is another stop on the Travel Man tour, and it was also a spot that we knew we wanted to visit before we watched the Stockholm episode. ABBA was and is huge. I mean, you don’t get a stage musical and two subsequent movie-musicals made about you if you are not immensely popular. I have always enjoyed ABBA. I’m not a superfan by any means, but I understand their importance to many people around the world. The Eurovision singing competition is the reason that they exploded, and they kept on cooking.

The museum was a tour through their start at Eurovision, their rise to fame, and their current status as music legends.

Oh, and there were costumes. Lots and lots of costumes.

It was really fun to walk through ABBA’s various eras and see how they evolved and continued to make music that spoke to millions of people.

Toward the end of the tour, you could take a look at some memorabilia from the movie Mamma Mia!, which, until our flight home, I had not seen. You see, it came out the same weekend as The Dark Knight in 2008. I made different priorities.

I tagged Pierce Brosnan in that photo on my social media, but did not hear back from him—sad face emoji.

I really found the entire museum experience to be one that catered to the hardcore/diehard fans as well as those who were just normal fans.

The line to get in was long. The ticket takers staggered the entrance, even if you had a timed entry, and it was still a bit of a wait. So I would advise anyone visiting to make sure they allocate enough time for waiting and experiencing the museum. This isn’t something that you want to rush through. That should be said for all of these places we visited, but if you love pop music history, then you should say gimme gimme gimme a ticket to the ABBA museum.

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Unforgettable Meatballs and Landmarks in Stockholm

Walking through Stockholm Arlanda Airport after our trip to Finland reminded us both just how big Stockholm is. Arlanda is larger in every respect than Turku. This was evident with our trip to baggage claim. Baggage carousels stretched for what seemed to be hundreds and hundreds of yards.

After we collected our things, we made our way to the exit, but not before some “familiar” faces greeted us. Lining the walls were portraits of famous Swedes, “welcoming us” to their hometown of Stockholm. We saw a Skarsgård (Stellan), Joel Kinnaman, Tove Lo, Avicii, Zara Larsson, and Axwell ^ Ingrosso, to name a few. It’s a nice touch to remind people that the Swedes have global reach in popular culture and beyond.

We were picked up by my partner’s parents and whisked to the outskirts of the city, where we would collect our bags from a friend of my future Father-In-Law and then start our exploration of the city in earnest. We met his former exchange “brother” and his family, who were lovely, and then we made our way further away from the city. We then met another one of his exchange “brothers.” We dropped off our bags and then went into the city to see some of the sights. Oh, and we were hungry. Very, very hungry.

Meatballs For The People delivers on its name. They served meaballs for the people. But it wasn’t your mom’s meatballs (unless your mom is Swedish). You can find just about any meatball here.

This neon accent gives you a peek into what kind of meatballs they serve at Meatballs For The People. Bear, Elk, Boar, Chicken, Beef, Reindeer, Lamb, Deer, and yes, they even have a Vegan option for those who live that lifestyle. Dare I say, they got it all? I do. I do dare.

Each of us ordered different balls (stop giggling), and we dug in. I will say that these were some of the best meatballs I have ever had. They were also among the most distinctive. Where else could I find a chicken and a reindeer meatball on the same menu? Stockholm. Stockholm is the answer. As I am sure other spots in Sweden, but for this piece, the answer is Stockholm.

After filling our bellies with meatballs, lingonberries (sneaky good berry, btw), and mashed potatoes, it was time to head to the old town.

Gamla Stan (Old Town) is the original city centre of Stockholm, dating back to the 13th century. It is a walker’s paradise. The streets are mainly closed to vehicles, making it an ideal spot to walk and enjoy the old buildings filled with shops, restaurants, and cafes.

There are a couple of spots I am going to highlight because they were among the more engaging and funky sites that we have visited.

First up is a site that is easy to miss unless you know what you are looking for. It’s a cannonball stuck in the corner of a building. The mythos is that somebody shot it during the 16th century and lodged it in the wall after just missing its intended target, Christian II of Denmark, during the Stockholm Bloodbath. The more pedestrian, factual story is that it was built into the wall by a merchant to create a point of interest.

Our next stop was a place I did not even know existed.

Mårten Trotzigs Gränd is the narrowest street in Stockholm. Living in the Bay Area of California, we know about steep and windy streets, but not narrow ones. And I am talking NARROW. At its narrowest point, the walkway is a mere 90 centimeters wide. Since we had been walking and would continue to walk, we opted to walk down the street instead of up.

This is such a niche thing to geek out over, but I did just that while walking down the steps. It was a nice break from the traditional things that people see while on vacation. It’s a bit funky and a bit, pardon the pun, off the beaten path.

I say all of that, about seeing things that are not normal sights, and then here I am about to tell you that we went to a museum after that narrow street.

But it wasn’t just any museum! It was all about the Nobel Prize. Specifically, it housed artifacts and other belongings from the winners of the various prizes.

Yes, my wearing my hometown LA Galaxy jersey was deliberate. I remember the frenzy and wild times Zlatan Ibrahimović brought to the Galaxy, so I decided to honor him and represent my team. It did not go unnoticed either. MLS, making waves across the globe! No longer seen as a retirement league!

We opted for the guided tour led by a docent. We were each given earpieces and radio packs that synced with the docent’s microphone. This way, they did not have to shout or talk loudly to the group to discuss what we were seeing. They spoke at a normal, conversational volume, and we could hear them in our ears. I am surprised that I had not experienced anything like that before. It’s so simple and effective.

As the docent led us around the exhibits, we saw a bicycle, medical equipment, a scarf, and even half of a desk. Each item is important to the recipient of a Nobel Prize in some fashion. Some were more literal, while others were more symbolic. For example, there was a doctor’s bag donated by Harvey Alter that he used while practicing, and Malala Yousafzai donated the scarf that she wore while speaking at the United Nations about education as a right for all children.

It is not a large space, by any means, but wandering around and seeing items donated by some of the most important people to have contributed to the world really illustrates the global impact one person can have.

After our tour was over, and we had exhausted our eyes poring over memorabilia, it was time to head outside and continue our walk through Old Town.

I think I instinctively knew that Stockholm had a lot of waterways, but seeing them in person was another thing entirely. It also didn’t hurt that the weather was absolutely brilliant, with a cloud-dotted sky and water combined, which made for a picturesque day in the city.

We walked past the Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet), some other cute, multicolored streets, and then to one of the many bridges that connect Old Town to downtown.

After our walk across some bridges and down some streets, it was time for us to drive back to our lodging. It really was a great way to end the day. The sun was “setting” (again, Land of the Midnight Sun and all), and I could not wait to see what our next day would bring.

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