Category Archives: Asia

A Symphony of Lights

No trip to Hong Kong, and Kowloon for that matter, is complete without seeing A Symphony of Lights.

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Star Ferry

 

If you’re on the island of Hong Kong at 8pm you won’t be able to see much, other than flashing lights. Hop on the Star Ferry, which as it turns out is cheaper than the MTR at 2.50HK, and get off at Tsim Sha Tsui (or TST as one of my friends calls it) and follow the coast to the best viewing spot at Avenue of Stars. You can also take the MTR and get off at Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the same directions to Avenue of Stars. There are signs at the MTR exit to direct you and, most likely, there will be a lot of people going to the same place.

Get there early and pick a spot on the water’s edge and wait for the show to start. It’s a wonderfully choreographed display of lights and music on a grand scale. I won’t go into more detail about the show because it needs to be seen and experienced first hand as words cannot completely convey all that goes on. I will just leave you all with this photo from my experience.

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Swoon For Kowloon

Quick ask me to name someone from Kowloon Bay.

Answer: Cassandra from Wayne’s World. Yes she’s fictitious but that’s all I got.

Up until this point my journey in Hong Kong was limited to the islands except for that one trip I made to the Ozone Bar which is on the Kowloon Bay side, so I decided to find more things for me to see and do by venturing across the bay. Getting there is easy, I just hopped on the Tsuen Wan line and in a few short minutes I was across the bay and taking in a very different side of Hong Kong. I didn’t see the Aston Martin’s or Ferrari’s cruising around or see expats in suits talking about finance and other boring business stuff. I saw Hong Kong. And when I say that I mean I saw the version of Hong Kong I had in my mind before I arrived. Let me tell you, coming from a town in South Africa that is wide open and small at the same time this was a bit of a culture shock for me. But that did not stop me from exploring.

My journey began at the Mong Kok station because I was looking for a particular soccer jersey and I read about a few shops that might carry it in that area. I exited the station on the correct side and immediately I knew I was out of my depth as the signs – neon’s and banners alike – were large and covering the sky and the buildings seemed much closer together mainly because there were hundreds – if not thousands – of people on the streets all doing their shopping. My plan went out the window right there. I knew which direction I needed to go but could not find the soccer shops at all. I turned a corner and found myself in the middle of a street market. Watches, handbags, luggage, belts, shirts, dresses, magnets, scarves, and jewelery lined the walls of the 15-foot tall tents that lined the street. And when I say lined the walls, I mean from floor to ceiling a product was hanging to let the buyer know what they had. I saw a few TON of soccer jerseys but not the one I was searching for which is partially what I had expected but I was overwhelmed at the sheer volume of choices.

I walked up and down the street market, which felt like it took about about a mile of road but in actuality must have only been 1/4 mile, and glanced into each and every tent hoping to find something to buy but I had no idea what I was looking for and I came unprepared for this adventure as the cash in my wallet was low and I doubted any of these places accepted Visa.

As I wandered aimlessly up the street peeking into each and every shop I began to see the same items from earlier shops and I wondered what, if any, were the price differences from each shop. This thought left my mind as quickly as it entered because in typical John fashion I stumbled upon Ladies’ Street. Stumbled is a bit dramatic, I just kept walking in the same direction and happened upon it, but stumbled sounds more inspiring and spontaneous. As you can imagine the Ladies’ Street Market sells items geared toward women – but I checked it out anyway. I found nothing to buy. *Frowny Face*

After walking up and down the streets for what felt like hours searching for things to buy – and having no idea what I was looking for other than a soccer jersey – I decided to call it an afternoon and head back because there is only so much shopping I can do in one day, and I didn’t even shop.

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Photo courtesy of Wikimedia

 

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Buddha Buddha Buddha Buddha Rockin’ Everywhere

Is that post title in poor taste? Mmmmmmaybe a little but I find it works in this situation just like that time I used a Nicki Minaj song for another travel destination in Hong Kong. Also, I had to sit through Keanu Reeves in Little Buddha so I think this is just fine.

Take a trip out East on Hong Kong’s MTR on the Tung Chung line and ride it all the way to the very end. Your Octopus card will take a bit of a hit once you tap to exit the turnstile but where you’re headed is well worth the price. Follow the signs with the picture of a gondola (not the kind you see floating in water – the kind that takes you over rivers and mountains) and find your way to Ngong Ping 360 – your gateway to the world’s largest Buddha.

Don’t pay for the glass-bottomed gondola because in reality it’s not really worth the extra money AND it also forces you to look down at the ground beneath you and if you are like me (and have a natural fear of heights – even though I’ve bungied and jumped out of airplanes) then you will not want to look down. The view out of the windows is spectacular enough and can make you queasy as the gondola slightly sways with the high winds as you travel above Lantau Island to the monastery.

As you make your way through the peaks and valleys look down and see that there is a trail that you can take to and from the monastery and it reminds you that before modern conveniences, like this gondola, the only way to get there was by foot. Passing over this trail just makes your legs tired and even seeing people scattered along it as the gondola passes over them makes you ever so glad that you don’t need to take that walk.

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As the gondola makes a final turn you see it in the distance. The Big Buddha. It’s much larger than imagined, even if you know the dimensions. It was a similar experience for me when I saw Picasso’s Guernica for the first time. I knew it was large and extremely detailed but seeing it in person brought to light just how impressive a piece of art it actually is. The Big Buddha is no different. There are numerous hills in every direction but the only one you look at has Buddha sitting on it.

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After you have left the Gondola it is a quick walk through a highly Westernized area that has a yoghurt shop, a cafe and even a Subway – because you know the monks like to “Eat Fresh” too. Once through this area you make your way down a white stone pathway and essentially just follow the people as they are all going to The Big Buddha – also you can’t miss it because it’s Big.

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Once you have had a look around the Buddha and have taken in the 360º view of Lantau Island walk through the monastery grounds and see the dogs that live there and, when I was there, even a yak can be seen walking around and walk along the trail to the Wisdom Path which “traces a series of 38 wooden steles (upright monuments) containing verses from the centuries-old Heart Sutra; one of the world’s best-known prayers revered by Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists alike. These steles display the Chinese version of the prayer, based on the calligraphy of famous contemporary scholar Professor Jao Tsung-I, and are arranged in a ∞ pattern, which represents infinity.”

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After walking through the monastery and the short trail that led you out to the Wisdom Path it is time to head back and catch the gondola before they stop running. As you sit in the gondola take in the beauty of the island and the Buddha one last time because you never know when if you will ever be back and to be fair the Buddha is not rockin’ everywhere like my title suggests, it just rocks here but the journey here is well worth it.

 

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Breaking Lab – Ice Cream & Science in Hong Kong

I feel as if Jesse Pinkman would say something like “Yeah science!” if he knew something like this existed. I’m talking of course about Hong Kong’s best ice cream and it’s not being made in the traditional way. Equations and recipes are scribbled in yellow dry erase marker on the windows of this ice cream shop which make it look more like Mark Zuckerberg’s dorm room from The Social Network than they do a place that sells ice cream, but this isn’t a normal ice cream shop.

Nestled in Tai Hang behind the Causeway Bay Sports Ground is Lab Made, a popular destination for those seeking to escape the heat and humidity or for those just looking for some delicious ice cream.

I happened upon Lab Made because a friend of mine currently living in Hong Kong told me about it and I’ve never been one to turn away ice cream, let alone ice cream that is prepared using science and chemistry as a guideline. Yes, I realise that making regular ice cream uses science as well but the main reactant used by Lab Made makes it more science-y. They use liquid nitrogen.

Now before you go all crazy on me and “flip out!”, as Jerry Maguire said, it’s all perfectly safe. I mean I’m here writing about my experience there so clearly I’m not dead from the liquid nitrogen. If you don’t believe me, click here, it will tell you everything you need to know about the process and how they safely use it. Feel better? Good. Because this place is pretty cool.

What also makes Lab Made great is their menu – it’s always changing. Like a great restaurant that serves catch of the day or whatever is freshly picked that day from the farm, Lab Made does the same. All of their “ice creams are made from scratch, using real, fresh, quality ingredients so there’s no need for additives, colourings or preservatives.” The menu is always changing which means you may never be bored by their selections, it also means that you might be there every single week (which is a smart business tactic because this place is addictive). During my visit I had the lemon meringue sorbet. It was tangy, juicy, full of awesome but not overpowering citrus flavour from the lemon and it was served on a bed of mini meringues that dissolved on my tongue while I put spoonfuls of sorbet on my mouth. After I was finished, I licked my bowl clean (not my finest hour, but certainly not my worst) and wanted more but knew I should not. Like I said, it’s addictive.

Clearly this place is doing something many things right,

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The Air Up There – Hong Kong Style

I think I have already established that I have no real problem with heights. So it should come as no surprise that in every city I visit I try to get up to a view point that puts me above it all and Hong Kong is no different as it is home to many observation decks that can be visited for free – you just need to get there by traversing the multiple walkways and overpasses in order to get from one street to another. It is doable and I highly recommend it because the views from these observation decks provides a whole new perspective on what the city is like.

First up is the Bank of China Tower which is the building designed by I.M. Pei and is, all-in-all, pretty spectacular and is the most recognizable out of all of the buildings in Hong Kong. It’s the one Feng Shui experts don’t like because of it’s hard lines and angles. Boo hoo, it looks pretty cool to me and was my first stop on my skyscraper tour. Please note that a valid photo ID (passport, driver’s license, etc.) is required upon entry or else you won’t be able to get in. They use your name and assign you an ID that gets you up to the 43rd floor. I happened to visit the observation deck on a somewhat cloudy day so visibility was limited but I could still see the other buildings. I was treated to this spectacular view of most of Central Hong Kong and some of Kowloon:

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2 IFC in all it’s Dark Knight glory

From here I could see my next destination: 2 IFC, the building prominently featured in the above photograph as well as in the 2008 film The Dark Knight – which is really why I wanted to go into that building in the first place. I love Batman, it’s no real secret. I used to order pizza from the local pizzeria under the name Bruce Wayne, some of the friends I made in South Africa call me Harvey Dent on account that they think I look like Aaron Eckhart’s Harvey Dent from The Dark Knight and I even wrote my college essay on Batman and why he was/is my hero (I said he stood up for the good people and against the corrupt and things of that nature). And yes, I got into college…and graduated.

At 2 IFC you will need to navigate through the people and mall and follow the sings – which is very easy – and after providing a valid ID and receiving a badge allowing you access, make your way up to the 55th floor. Now, up at the 55th floor it is more than just a view of the city, it also chronicles the monetary history of Hong Kong. This view just so happens to be provided by the Hong Kong Monetary Authority so why not throw in a little bit of history for the visitor as well? I learned things about Hong Kong’s money that I didn’t even realize like, for example, they have a plastic reader (it’s essentially a piece of hard plastic folded together) that the blind can use in order to see how much money they have. They do this by matching the bill up to a braille symbol on the plastic which indicates the bills denomination. This is all made possible because the dollar bills are different sizes. I think that’s pretty cool.

After reading as much of the information as I could handle I took in this view:

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Bank of China Tower in view

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The Peak observation deck near the top

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One IFC in the forefront

Lastly, I went across the bay to Kowloon to the 118th floor of the Ritz Carlton and to the Ozone Bar. Dubbed ‘the highest bar in the world’ Ozone has the vibey ambiance and view make this an experience not to miss. The bar is open to everyone, not just hotel guests, and getting there is half the fun but not for the claustrophobic. The elevator is thin and narrow and decorated with black padded panels that look like stones seen in front of walkways leading up to houses in suburban America.

The elevator doors open and I am greeted by vibrant-yet-dark mood lighting and the sound of soft dance music pumping through the speakers and I look out beyond the glass and see the main area of the bar and the view it has of Hong Kong. The coast is bathed in neon lights and the hills are black and speckled with yellow lights telling me that yes they in fact are still there and have not disappeared in the night. The prices for drinks are what you would expect for a place like this but given the view of Hong Kong it provides I sat around for one drink and enjoyed the Hong Kong skyline.

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Not a view from the bar, but from the same area.

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