Category Archives: Europe

Navigating the UK’s Narrow Roads: A Driver’s Tale

When I lived in Australia for a few months in 2007, it was the first time I had ever experienced driving on the left side of the road. It took some getting used to. I never drove a car while I was over there, but that doesn’t mean it wasn’t an adjustment for someone accustomed to driving on the right side of the road.

Crossing the street meant, and means (present tense still applies because they still do it weirdly), that you look right first and then left. It also means that you have to prepare yourself to be on the correct side of the street while waiting for the bus, or else your bus will pass by you and you will be left standing on the wrong side of the street. Who can honestly say if that happened or not?

I feel like I adjusted well during my time Down Under. Even now, 18 years later, I still find myself occasionally looking to my right first before crossing a street. I sometimes justify it as “Well, the car that I need to really be aware of is the one on the far side of the street because that’s the one that can’t fully see me/that’s the one that could hit me. I can dodge the first one/they are aware of me, but the second car is the dangerous one!” Does it make any sense whatsoever? Not at all. However, not much in my mind makes sense.

After my first left-side driving experience in New Zealand in 2023, I was a bit more confident in my ability this time around. I got pretty comfortable driving and navigating. I was told that the UK was a completely different animal. Yes, the roads wind and rise like they do in New Zealand, but they also become so narrow that barely one and a half cars can fit down the road. It’s almost as if the streets were built before there were cars on the road! Gasp!

After the occasional bridge and overpass, also known as major motorways, the roads transform into something else. I hesitate to say that the streets ramble on and go all willy-nilly to take you where you need to go because at the time of their creation, I bet that those were the only safe options to take. There was no straight line option to get to someone’s home. The path had to wind around water or someone’s farmland. Needless to say, I was a bit out of my depth the first time around when I came to a spot in the road where it narrowed so much that I had to crank the wheel to one side so that the other car could pass, since they had the right of way. After I saw it in practice, I began to get the hang of the rules of the British road.

Now, not every single road was super narrow. Some, like the one pictured above, were decently proportioned to allow two cars to drive on the road, albeit very closely. The road pictured below is a different story. Aside from the weirdly named shop, FATFACE, you can see that the street is extremely narrow. Barely one car can fit down the lane. You can even see one parked in the distance to give you some perspective.

And yet, cars are still allowed there. I thought we were not allowed to drive there, given the volume of pedestrians in the street, but that was not the case. The cars drove very slowly and turned at the speed of a glacier.

I was pretty nervous driving on such narrow roads. I won’t lie. I was overly conscious of the people walking about, of the other cars on the road, and of the dogs.

The part that really tested me was when we drove on backroads. I am referring to the streets with no posted speed limit, or whether they were even real roads. JK, they were real roads. Our Welsh hosts said, or one of them said, that he drives close to 90 on some of those roads. His wife disagreed with him and shot him down. I believe he was exaggerating because the way some of those roads are, there is no safe way to drive that fast.

Here in the States, we have a few narrow roads and pinch points. Most of the time, they are bridges or private roads. There, you would give the right of way to whoever arrived at that point in the road first, and then you would follow. It’s simple. Try doing that when you’re reasonably sure the speed limit is 40 and there are 10-foot-tall hedges lining the road on either side, creating a maze-like experience. Then, you approach a narrow turn or lane and see another car. BRAKE! You wave the other auto on through, and they wave back because you did the polite and correct thing.

It’s a good feeling. Getting that acknowledgment wave. It boosts your driving serotonin, if that’s even a thing, and makes you crave that feeling. Basically, doing good does good.

After being a tad overly cautious at the start, I started to get my left-side driving legs and began to feel comfortable. It truly is an odd sensation with the steering wheel on the other side of the car. You get so used to driving a certain way for decades, and then, wham, here you are in another country driving differently, yet it is still the same. I know, it’s a bit “Is this guy high right now?” with his platitudes he’s spouting now, but it was only a brief moment! It was a fleeting shower thought.

There is something to be said about the difference in turning and changing lanes on the left side of the road. As a right-side driver, I am so used to and conditioned to having a car drive by me on my left side. It was a jarring sensation having them go by me on my right, next to my passenger. Anyway, I think I’ve written enough about driving in the UK for a total lifetime.

I will end this journey with a follow-up from my last post. It turns out I hadn’t told my now fiancée that I had thought about asking her to marry me while we were in St. Agnes. She texted me “wtf john” and “I wanted you to propose to me there!” Alas, I proposed at another place and time. More on that, much later.

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Exploring Cornwall: A Journey Through Coastal Towns

I admit, I knew nothing about Cornwall before arriving in the UK. I know about Redwall, I have been to the Corn Palace, and I have heard of Cornish Pixies, but I knew nothing about Cornwall. Come to find out, there are many beach towns worthy of a visit here, too!

Cornwall, Kernow to the locals, is located in the westernmost part of the English South West Peninsula. It is a bit of a trek to get there. The roads are long, with plenty of Services available, and they stretch on and on. This is especially true when we were coming from Wales.

Our reason for visiting Cornwall was two-fold. One was to see my partner’s Great Aunt. The other was to show me around. This is a place where my partner grew up. She would spend occasional summers and winters here with her Great Aunt and Uncle. She wanted to share a part of her past with me and allow me to experience the joy of being there among the people of Cornwall.

I really did enjoy meeting her Great Aunt. I lost my grandmother over 20 years ago, and I do miss her. Meeting a member of my partner’s extended family was a bit of a salve on the wound of losing my own family member all those years ago. Aunt Cynthia is a gem.

Using the town of Truro as a base, we set out in different directions to explore the English coast.

Our first stop was the town of Padstow. There is a car park on the water, which can get rather busy regardless of the time of year. The day we visited was no exception. We must have circled the lot three times before a car finally pulled out, and we backed our way into a spot that was so tricky for our rental to maneuver in that when we finished parking, we high-fived each other.

Once we parked, we were treated to a lovely view of the water, obviously.

You may be looking at that photo above and say, “Oy! There are many spots right in front of you! You lie!” Those spots aren’t for regular cars, and as Bryn from Gavin & Stacey says, “I’ll tell you for why:” they’re for caravans or coaches carrying groups of people.

Anyway, there was a Rick Stein’s restaurant and cookery school right next to the car park, so we dipped in there and had some lovely fish and local drinks before we set about the town.

Several cool shops and cafes were dotting the waterfront, and there were many people out and about on this day. The sun was out, sort of, and the weather overall was accommodating. It was a pleasant day by British standards! And I would have to agree. The cool weather made the walk around the town very enjoyable.

I didn’t know this, but the British love their ice cream. As we made our way around the waterfront, we saw many people holding cups and cones of ice cream, even though it was not warm. If this were back home, the ice cream shops would be boarded up and shut for the season. But not these people. And I love them for that. I have always had a bit of a sweet tooth. More than a bit. A lot. So we definitely had a cone while we walked, and I had my partner hold my ice cream while I took the above photo. We are a great team!

Our next stop would be going all the way down to Mousehole. To those of you with an American accent in your brain speaking to you as you read, it is not pronounced Mouse Hole. It is pronounced Mau-zel. With that settled, let me say that the streets in Mousehole are ridiculous. Even for a more compact auto, we had a hard time navigating. The roads were narrow. The turns were tight. And to make matters worse, the car parks were full.

My partner had reached her limit of driving. So, I took over once we got out of the main town. I hadn’t driven on the left side of the road since August 2023 in New Zealand. Now I come with experience and the know-how to drive better than ever!

With me behind the wheel, we turned our sights to a new destination. After the disappointment of Mousehole, we wanted a spot that was a bit quieter. Enter St. Agnes. It is the definition of a quaint beach village. There were fewer people, and I found the view to be slightly better. The way the beach opens up and offers up the expansive ocean as a turquoise-tinted vista is breathtaking.

To our surprise, there were several surfers out in the water. The Royal Navy Lifeboat Institution (think surf lifesavers/lifeguards), pictured above, was also hosing off their wares after being in the water practicing lifesaving. The cold temperatures of the water were not enough to deter those determined to enter the water.

As you walk down the lone road to the beach, there is a narrow path off to the left that takes you up and over and offers up stunning views of the town, the water, and everything else left.

This area feels abandoned. But also as if it was ripped from time and untouched. But, more than likely, I took it to mean that not many people were venturing out above the water when it was 40 degrees Fahrenheit. That left us to explore and be treated to a quiet spot above the town.

Continuing on the trail, we reached a point where we could either continue our trek and make it a real hike, or we could pause and enjoy the surroundings. There was a moment where we thought about trudging onward, but we looked up the hill and it was STEEP. Not too steep, but steep enough that we knew we wouldn’t want to be sweating profusely by the time we reached the top.

We spent a decent amount of time at this spot. It was serene. We could look out across to where the water meets the sky and really take in the vastness of the ocean and our place in the world. Spoiler alert, I nearly proposed to my partner here, but a bit too many people were walking around us, and I did not have a ring on me. I think she knows this, but in case she does not, I will probably hear from her in the next few seconds after she finishes reading this piece. I’ll tell you her response in my next post!

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Discover the Charm of St. Davids on Boxing Day

Boxing Day is a significant holiday in nearly every other English-speaking country, except for the United States. I always knew it as a day to watch every Premier League team play. I also knew it as a day when there would not be many people out and about. Or at least, that is what I thought I knew.

It would seem that many other people in neighbouring towns had the same inkling that we had. In that, they also wanted to get out, take a stroll somewhere, and have a meal at a pub or restaurant. My partner had told me about St. Davids, the cathedral, and the town, and she mentioned how beautiful the area is. So, naturally, we made our way out there with minimal resistance in the form of traffic or people.

After circling the centre of town looking for a car park of any kind, we eventually found one. And let me tell you, if you are looking for a quaint Welsh village with curb appeal around every corner, this could be your spot. The Christmas lights were strung across the streets, and the weather was just on the right side of damp before edging into wet territory, which made for an eerie but pleasantly atmospheric setting.

Finding the cathedral is not hard. There are signs all over the streets leading you in the proper direction. And reader, let me tell you, the walk in (it’s downhill, so it’s nice [more on that at the exit]) opens up to a rather stunning view of the church. I didn’t think it would be as massive as it actually is. With the fog and clouds so low, it added another level of mystery and brought out that truly Medieval quality the building evokes.

Walking around the grounds and inside the church itself really reminded me of the church that I used to frequent as a child. Although to a much lesser degree, I could see where my hometown church might have drawn inspiration. I could see it in the stonework, the stained glass, and the tower. Beyond that, St Davids blows that one out of the water.

The people who work there and operate the cathedral on a day-to-day basis have done an excellent job maintaining the grounds. It was an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. Accessing living history is something that one should not take for granted. Although some structures on the grounds have become ruins, it is essential to preserve and visit them.

It’s super cliche for me to write, but access to our past helps us inform our future, even in this instance. These are architectural marvels, given how long they have stood and how long they continue to stand.

Continuing the self-guided tour outside, you are treated to more civil engineering work (bridges, walls, etc.), and you can see how big a footprint the church has. The old Bishops Palace stands in ruins, hollowed out by time. The sloped grounds are pretty massive. Numerous monuments and gravesites speckle the lot. You can even get a little something for yourself at the gift shop nearby.

After leaving the cathedral grounds, we made our way back up the slope. It’s a steady incline, but an incline nonetheless. Calves burned. A little perspiration was produced. But don’t worry, that was only because we were wearing large coats. Not because we were out of shape. With it being Boxing Day, we luckily found ourselves a pub that was open for a few more hours before we had to head back to the town of Llangwm.

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Wales’ Stunning Beaches: A Paradise for Beach Lovers

When you think of Wales, what is the first thing that comes to mind? Is it Doctor Who? Because for me, it’s Doctor Who. Many of the newer seasons (think Christopher Eccleston, also known as The Ninth Doctor, and beyond) have been filmed almost exclusively in Wales. Little did I know that Wales was also famous for its beaches!

Upon closer consideration, it makes sense. There are 1,680 miles of coastline. There are also numerous stunning beach communities and spots that dot the coastline. Even in the wintertime, these spots were excellent to visit.

Our first stop was Tenby. I mean, look at that coastline. The beach stretches for miles, making it an excellent spot for a walk. It’s also a great spot to bring your dog! Not only was the beach a great spot to bring your dog, but Wales was severely more accommodating of dogs than anywhere I have seen in the States. It was wonderful to take our Labrador retriever hostess, Agnes, along with us on each of our stops.

Miss Agnes has a paddle.

Even with the clouds and quasi-chilly weather, it was a wonderful place for a stroll.

Turning our focus away from the beach, we went into town. The entire village is dotted with these brightly colored buildings that speak to its vibrancy. Sidenote, how do these cars drive down these tiny roads? Very carefully.

Tenby Harbour

After wandering through the streets and the shops, slightly depressed that there wasn’t an ice cream shop open, we found our way to a pub. Naturally.

My mom has this thing about drinking local beers wherever she goes. I like to do that too, so having a Harbwr Brewery beer in Tenby just made delicious sense. There are numerous shops and restaurants to choose from throughout the town. Being that it was Christmas Eve, I was surprised at how many spots were open. I was also surprised at seeing just how many people were out and about. Everyone was taking advantage of the weather, and it was delightful to be a part of it.

As I mentioned earlier, Wales is frequently used as a filming location for the show Doctor Who. One of its beaches was also used in the filming of the Harry Potter film series. Specifically, it was used for the final scene of The Deathly Hallows: Part One and the beginning of Part Two. The following section contains a massive spoiler; if you haven’t read the books or seen the movies, please continue scrolling until after the photos. ************* Scroll now to avoid it *************

I knew from research that there was a nearby beach that was the home of Dobby’s grave. I’ve got a brother-in-law who hates Dobby because of how much trouble he got Harry in. But enough about him and his myopic thinking. I wanted to see where they filmed the scene. It’s a moving scene because Dobby was one of the first sentient, magical creatures that Harry befriended, and in the end, Dobby sacrificed his own safety and well-being to save Harry and his friends. It’s a real gut punch given everything Harry has already lost up to that point.

First, we made our way to Freshwater West beach. The spot of Dobby’s grave is not too difficult to find. There will, more than likely, be people hovering around the makeshift grave just above the main beach. I was not expecting the site to be as moving as it was. When I walked up, I saw the sheer volume of stones with personal messages written on them for Dobby. This is a character in a book and film series. People from around the world have come here to pay their respects. It’s heartwarming to think about the impact he had on all of these people who left a note or message.

It should be noted that the Welsh government has asked people not to leave socks (it’s a house elf thing) by the grave because they could end up in the ocean, adding pollution to the beach. Leave your socks on your feet or in your drawers.

***** Spoilers Over *****

Our last beach of the day took us to Broad Haven Beach, located near Haverfordwest.

As you can see, it’s a lovely, crescent-shaped bay. The sand was soft. The mist coming off the water created an almost mythical atmosphere, making the space even more enchanting. As we walked the beach, along with Agnes, I couldn’t help but take in the beauty of the area. I live in and was born in California. It’s a place known for its beaches. But the Welsh beaches felt more magical. Maybe I’m seeing these beaches through Red Dragon-colored glasses, but all the spots we visited that day were places I want to return to and visit in the summer. I can’t say that about Santa Monica or Redondo Beach.

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Welcome to Wales! From Football to Pantomimes

Why didn’t I stick with the “From The UK…” title? Well, it’s because of history.

I don’t know much about the Welsh-English conflict, but I know it has been, to make it tame, tumultuous. The English (ahem, Monarchy) forced the Welsh people to change their surnames and actively suppressed the Welsh language, to name a couple of instances. Side note: I am learning Welsh through Duolingo! It’s a beautiful and, at times, frustrating language.

Oh, and the Welsh flag is not depicted on the Union Jack. This is due to the Welsh flag being, technically, part of the kingdom of England at the time of its creation. So that awesome Dragon (Draig in Welsh) is absent from the UK flag. One more thing to blame the English for! 😅

The other reason for the title is football. If you weren’t aware, there is a documentary series on FX called Welcome to Wrexham. It follows Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney through their lives as owners of a Welsh football club, Wrexham AFC. It’s a truly great show, highlighting not only the club but also the people who support it. Even when the game results are known, it is at times thrilling. Then it also becomes incredibly heartfelt in its depiction of the citizens of The Town. They love their club as much as they love their town.

All that said…We went to Wales!

After leaving Liverpool, we headed off to our destination in South Wales. With that aforementioned FX show in mind, we took a little stop in Wrexham. It was very brief, as we were on a time crunch.

If you look at the right side of the photo above, you will see The Turf. It’s the white building next to the stadium. It is the local pub for fans of the team. We drove past it, and the parking lot, and I literally said out loud, “Oh! There’s the guy!” The “guy” was Wayne Jones, the owner and operator of The Turf. I don’t know why I was surprised to see the man from the show doing his actual job of running the quick-service burger stand next to the pub, but I was. It was like seeing a celebrity, and there he was, living his life.

After watching the series, we wanted to see a match, but it did not line up this time around. Plus, we had to get to Pembrokeshire for a Pantomime!

After making our way through the windy ways of Wales, we ended up in Pembrokeshire and the town of Llangwm. Our hosts, my partner’s former Au Pair, who now has a family of her own, wanted to take us to something that was a staple in the United Kingdom. That would be a Pantomime, also known as a Panto. In the States, we hear ‘pantomime’ and think about being voiceless, using music to express those words unsaid. That’s not what it means in British.

A Pantomime in the British vernacular refers to a musical or comedy show set to a fairy tale aimed at children but also featuring elements that appeal to adults. The audience is encouraged to participate. Characters will interact with the crowd. The audience will boo the villain and cheer for the prince. I had a few pints before we settled in, and I knew from the jump that this would be something special. The opening number was “I Gotta Feeling” by the Black Eyed Peas. I had no idea what was going on but in the best way.

What followed was a retelling of Snow White filled with songs straight out of a jukebox musical, as well as one from a literal musical. “Symphony” by Clean Bandit, and “What is this Feeling?” from Wicked, to name a couple. I was told that most of the cast were locals. There were a few outliers. Our Prince was on Love Island (!) and the Fairy was in an early 2000s pop band, Liberty X. The rest of the cast seemed to be plucked out of the town, and that added to the charm and enjoyment factor. A sense of joy emanated from them. It was palpable and enhanced the experience.

The audience was feeling it. The cast was very animated. We were encouraged to boo the villain, but I thought he was misunderstood and only doing what he was told, even though deep down he didn’t want to. So I cheered for him. I even turned a few other audience boos into cheers. At one point, I managed to get the attention of the Dame and get one of our friends to go up on stage. He then got a pie to the face. Sorry Dylan!

It was, all in all, a really great experience and something wholly unique to this part of the world. It was a great way to begin our Welsh journey.

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